— What’s going on in this dusty old Rolex Replica Watches workshop. Hermès teases us with this quirky animation.
Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon in pink gold with hand-made Guilloché
A Poinçon de Genève standard for every Rolex Replica watches and avant-garde styling distinguish this Geneva manufacture from other elite brands.
On paper, the criteria for Poinçon de Genève authentication are impressive. Page after page of detailed instructions dictate the specific decoration and finish acceptable for each component, from circular grained screw heads and polished inner edges of wheel teeth to chronometric performance and outer finish. The list is comprehensive. On the floor of a manufacture, the process is even more impressive, particularly if, like Roger Dubuis, the entire production is 100% Geneva Seal. On a recent tour of the only operation in watchmaking that is set up to produce every single Omega Replica watches according to Poinçon regulations, I was utterly astounded by the level of engineering it takes for even the smallest component.
There are, for example, seven separate technical operations involved in the milling of a single pinion in the roulage phase alone, in which CNC machines extract material from the metal to shape the diameter and cut the profiles of each tooth. Later, every angle, groove and face of each individual pinion is polished in another multi-step process. The closer it comes to being complete, the more hands-on the process is – and the more low-tech: one final polish is conducted with the edge of a beer coaster, which has just the right texture and strength to do the job. In the production of another component in the dressage stage, a champagne cork is used to drag it across an abrasive paper to create parallel lines. And in one of the many stages of polishing, the manufacture tumbles some components not only standard polishing mixes but also with finely minced walnuts for just the right finish.
A limited production
When you consider that the average Roger Dubuis movement has 250 components – more than 450 in the Double Flying Tourbillon, the brand’s signature and bestselling movement – you begin to fathom the outlandish investment in time it takes to manufacture according to Hallmark standards – it adds 30% to 40% more time to the production process, not including assembly.
The cost is justified, when you consider that Roger Dubuis sells one of its signature double tourbillon Replica Watches, priced in the USD 200,000 range, at the rate of one per day, according to CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué. Obviously there are aficionados who appreciate the value of a polished pinion tooth, and understand that the Geneva Seal is not just about aesthetics but about the operation of the entire watch. The exacting finish has long been assumed to improve performance, and since two years ago, this is an authenticated aspect of the Seal. The Geneva laboratory of horology and microengineering with responsibility for the Poinçon de Genève now goes beyond dictating manufacturing processes of the movement to require testing of the entire watch, including accuracy (1 minute in 7 days), function (tested for seven days in several positions), power reserve (the value claimed) and water resistance (30 meters), in addition to the outside finish, also new. There are no shortcuts and no half measures. The laboratory conducts 12 unscheduled audits throughout the year to ensure full compliance.
The fact that Roger Dubuis is 100% Geneva Seal distinguishes it from other luxury watch manufactures and explains why the brand’s production is so limited. Le Geneva based laboratory authenticates only 30,000 pieces per year, and of that, about 4,000 watches are Roger Dubuis, representing their entire production.
20th anniversary in 2015
Roger Dubuis, the watchmaker, started the brand in 1995 (at the age of 58) in partnership with Carlos Dias, after a 14-year stint repairing and restoring watches for Patek Philippe and then as the owner of his own restoration company. “I have a lot of experience with complicated mechanisms,” he says, “and I have a lot of respect for the tradition. I wanted to leverage and capitalize on that knowledge, and now I am working on the transmission of that knowledge.” Dubuis also wanted his watches to be distinctive in design. Indeed, the brand’s modern design philosophy is almost at odds with its adherence to a manufacturing criteria that was established more than a century ago, and stands out against other elite brands at a time when most are designing watches according to the traditional design codes of classic 18th century pocket Replica Watches UK (even while using state-of-the-art calibers). Roger Dubuis designs are resolutely avant-garde – “we are not part of the classic program,” says Pontroué – with an emphasis on multi-level dials, skeletonization and a quasi-industrial aesthetic. The guilloched dials of the Hommage collection involve deep engravings done directly into the brass mainplate, giving the watches a distinctively modern look, yet combined with traditional elements such as applied Roman numerals.
The future of Roger Dubuis lies in its well-established innovative approach to watchmaking – I saw a new model during my visit that is very leading-edge both in general and for Roger Dubuis. It is a limited edition of 20 pieces, to be launched in 20 different cities simultaneously this Fall. It is embargoed until then, but it is safe to say the watch is Poinçon de Geneve and it follows the codes of the Roger Dubuis specialty … double tourbillon, plus, plus.
Growth on the ladies’ watch market
The company also has its sights on increasing its share of the ladies’ watch market – and aims to expand into jewelry, a segment the brand occupied before joining the Richemont Group in 2008. The brand’s signature ladies’ collection is the Velvet, which now comprises 20% of the company’s turnover. “We would like to see the ladies’ watches grow to 30% of sales by 2016,” says Pontroué. For Roger Dubuis, that is an expensive ambition, aimed at a very exclusive market. “We are an Haute Horlogerie brand,” Pontroué points out. “We want to keep Roger Dubuis 100% mechanical. We have never made a cheap quartz watch. There are no non-diamond watches in the line, and we are all Geneva Seal.”
Once the ladies’ watch market reaches 30% of turnover, the goal is to expand into jewelry. “We want to make ladies’ watches a strong platform, because we want to keep the option open to relaunch jewelry one day,” says Pontroué. The brand had jewelry collections pre-Richemont, but when it was relaunched, the number of skus was drastically reduced, and the focus was placed on watches. “Once we believe we are mature enough in ladies’ watches, then, it will be the time to launch jewelry. We can wait,” he says. “We are not being pressured by a shareholder, and we don’t believe in diversification just for the pleasure of having a product launch. It must be right for the brand.” When that time comes, will there be a new caliber for ladies? The answer is “of course.”
Fawaz Gruosi sure knows how to throw the best parties. He also knows that the more you praise and celebrate life, the more there is in life to celebrate.
Once again, he showed this in the occasion of his birthday, at an extravagant bash that attracted a crowd of models, actors and the international social elite. The party was held on August 8th in Sardinia’s Costa Esmeralda at the Billionaire Club in Porto Cervo. In the magical setting of this ultra exclusive Replica Watches UK club, decorated for the occasion in red, silver and white around the theme “Irresistible Troublemaker”, industry insiders, stars and close friends all came together to celebrate the man known as the “jeweler to the stars”.
Last week we let you discover the Bulgari Bulgari Catene Baguette for Women. Today we will talk about the Bulgari Bulgari Tourbillon men.
Timepieces set with jewelled precision, these new diamond creations represent the culmination of all forms of Bulgari expertise. It takes an expert hand to evoke all the brilliance of the diamond, and in the case of Bulgari Bulgari Tourbillon’s dial alone, in over 200 step-cut baguette diamonds. The rectangular baguette cut, named in French for its “bread loaf” shape, gives lustre and distinction to the diamond.
Featuring one of watchmaking’s most prestigious movements, this creation is named for this marvel of engineering and design. As an ingenious invention from the 19th c., the tourbillon is still revered for its practicality as well as its beauty. Greatly improving the accuracy of mechanical fake Omega watches, it was revolutionary to the world of horology.
Cased in 18-carat white gold and clasped with a black alligator strap, the Bulgari Bulgari Tourbillon is made to epitomise luxury. As it ticks via a mechanical movement with automatic winding, its BVL 263 calibre is the haute gamme of precision. Featuring a “see-through” tourbillon, a sapphire bridge, and dozens of diamond accents throughout, the BB Tourbillon clasps the best of Bulgari to a gentleman’s wrist.
Inspired by the creation of the first wristwatch by Abraham-Louis Breguet for Caroline Murat, the Reine de Naples Replica Watches For Sale is identified by the elegant curves of its case. Even though the shape of this case has entered into history, Breguet’s watchmakers have nevertheless chosen to interpret it in a resolutely contemporary model, while preserving its essence.
While retaining its egg shape, the case, made in 18-carat rose gold with a finely fluted caseband, has been curved to fit the shape of the wrist and ensure the watch can be worn in comfort but also to reveal a multitude of forms depending on the point of view.
The plain dial is in silvered and anthracite-coloured 18-carat gold and is adorned with manually operated engine-turned patterns. It follows the line of the case creating an illusion of depth, which highlights the hour markers, also curved and in gold, at 12 and 6 o’clock. A touch of brilliance is added to the Rolex Replica watches thanks to the crown set with an inverted diamond, while the ball attachment is decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds. The clasp of the leather strap is also set with 29 brilliant-cut diamonds.
The Reine de Naples “Princesse” 8968 watch is also available with an entirely silvered dial (ref. 8968BR/11/986 0D0D).
Promesse is the new timepiece from Century, part of the Master Imperial collection dedicated to the House’s prestigious creations.
The master craftsmen at Century have brought to life a totally new face, using one of the most advanced jewellery techniques: the snow setting.
Nestled right next to one another, the different diamond cuts a subtle and sophisticated effect. Individually selected, the sparkling stones appear to have been placed randomly, evoking the floral swirls of the hand-engraved dial, loke the most precious dewdrops. Surrounding the bezel, this display recalls the wonder we feel before an immaculate carpet of snow pierced by the first blooms.
Promesse dazzles with the 64 translucent facets of the Century sapphire in a palladium hue. Cut and polished entirely by hand, they perform a veritable symphony of light, their radiant effect accentuated by the delicate curve of the case in 18 ct. white gold.
The timepiece is mounted on an elegant alligator strap.
— Themes covered by Worldtempus last month ranged from classic car rallies to music boxes, as well as a rare award for a Replica Watches For Sale brand and, of course, plenty of summery timepieces.
The month started with the Cuervo y Sobrinos cup, which saw classic cars take in the most spectacular scenery of Italy, Austria and Switzerland. We published videos of each leg of the rally, as well as a review of the Historiador Racing Replica Omega watches that every participant received.
As usual, we had a monthly competition running on the site, but last month it was to win not a watch but an “Arche” music-box from Reuge worth almost 4,000 Swiss francs. Olivier Müller also interviewed the brand’s CEO Kurt Kupper on the latest developments, including its collaboration with MB&F.
As the watchmakers participating in the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris later this year gradually started to present their collections, Chaumet introduced the twelve high-jewellery sets it has created for the even in the form of a video. The brand also featured in Marie de Pimodan’s comprehensive gallery of the more colourful Rolex Replica watches for this summer.
Paris was also the stage for an unusual award made to the Ateliers Louis Moinet. After winning a Red Dot design award and prizes at the International Chronometry Competition and the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, Louis Moinet picked up an award for merit in the development in Replica Rolex watchmaking art and technology for the International Institute for Promotion and Prestige (IIPP), which is conferred in collaboration with UNESCO.
With the news that Sotheby’s will be selling the famous Henry Graves “Supercomplication” produced by Patek Philippe in 1933 later this year, the record for the most expensive fake watches ever sold at auction looks set to be broken… by the same Replica Watches.
The Graves watch sold for over twice its upper estimate almost 15 years ago in Geneva, when the hammer fell at 11 million dollars. This time around the estimate is in excess of 15 million dollars.
A symbolic depth of 300 metres, or more correctly a water resistance tested to 30 bars of pressure, seems to be a widespread norm for diver’s watches. Yet the ISO 6425 standard, by which such diver’s Omega Replica watches are homologated, requires only that the watch be water resistant to “at least 100 metres”.
Against this benchmark, the watches that we are looking at here are overengineered, in some cases to the extreme. While a professional diver may indeed find himself working at a depth of 300 metres, this represents the limits of mankind’s resistance. The deepest recorded dive, by divers of the Comex S.A. industrial deep-sea diving company in 1988, was 534 metres…
Despite its water resistance to 500 metres, the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec still resembles a “normal” diver’s watch and is even proposed in versions with a case in precious 18-carat rose gold. Its rubber strap (or stainless-steel bracelet with diving lock) and rotating bezel with clear indications single it out as a diver’s timepiece, while its 13.45mm thick case, with a 4mm thick sapphire crystal, helps to ensure the extreme water resistance. A helium valve allows the gas to escape during saturation diving. Chronometer-level timekeeping is provided by the CFB 1950.1 self-winding movement, which has a 38-hour power reserve.
The Scafodat 500 by Eberhard & Co. is, as the name suggests, also water resistant to a depth of 500 metres. Its oversize triangular hour markers at the four quarters give it the appearance of a compass and a separate crown at 4 o’clock – also oversize – operates a rotating flange (available with white or red numerals) underneath the 3mm thick sapphire crystal to record dive times. The Scafodat 500 relies on the ETA 2824-2 self-winding calibre for its timekeeping functions and has a stainless-steel bracelet with a patented system for lengthening and a patented folding clasp, or a rubber strap as shown below. An automatic helium escape valve is secreted in the case middle.
Updated in 2012, the latest Sea Hawk models from Girard-Perregaux turn the familiar aesthetic codes of a diver’s watch on their head. The crown is shifted to 4 o’clock and enclosed within a protrusion on the case for extra protection; the power reserve indicator is found at 6 o’clock, while the small seconds and date are in the unusual positions of 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock respectively on the “honeycomb” dial.
The 44mm diameter case of the Sea Hawk is 17.1mm thick, guaranteeing water resistance to a depth of 1000 metres. A helium escape valve means that it, too, is suitable used for deep-water saturation diving. Girard-Perregaux’s in-house GP03300 self-winding calibre with a 46-hour power reserve drives the watch at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
IWC has built a considerable safety net into its 46mm diameter Aquatimer Automatic 2000, which has a case 20.5mm thick that is water resistant to 200 bar – far beyond anything that a human being can endure. Bearing a resemblance to the brand’s Porsche Design for the Ocean 2000 model, the Aquatimer Automatic 2000 is slightly larger yet, thanks to its titanium case, easily wearable. It is powered by the IWC in-house 80110 calibre, which has a 44-hour power reserve, and is fitted with IWC’s patented bracelet quick-change system, which allows the rubber strap to be swapped easily for a metal bracelet.
If you’re planning to go diving this summer, or perhaps bungee jumping during your holidays… or even if you simply want the feel of a highly resistant timepiece on your wrist, you have plenty of choice.
The founding of the Swiss Confederation on 1 August 1291 is celebrated each year with a typically Swiss mixture of solemnity and festivities. One element that was lacking this year, however, was the summer sun.
Switzerland has had a shockingly bad summer, with some localities even experiencing horrendous floods. It’s the kind of weather that hampers the use of a watch like the Longines Hour Angle, which we wrist-tested over the past few weeks, because you need to see the sun at least briefly in order to establish the correct solar time.
In fact, the best timepieces for the recent conditions were probably the high-performance diver’s models that we featured in our second instalment of diver’s watches last week.
In our second article on the categories in this year’s Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix we looked at the sports watches, which cover all bases – from football to Formula 1 via… military aviation. With ten more categories to analyse, I’m sure this won’t be the last of the surprises.
Some of our colleagues will be returning from sunnier climes this week and we hope that they will be bringing some of the nice weather back with them. We will at least be injecting a little sunshine into our Summer Rolex Replica Watches series this week as we take a look at watches with summer landscapes.
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